Auto Lease Calculator

See your true monthly lease payment using the same money factor and residual value formula dealers use β€” plus how it compares to financing the same car.

πŸš—Enter your lease details below β€” the payment updates instantly.
MSRP
$
Negotiated Price
$
Down Payment
$
Trade-In Value
$
Acquisition Fee
$
Residual Value
% of MSRP
Lease Term
months
Rate
Sales Tax Rate
%
$34k Sedan, 36mo $48k SUV, 36mo $28k Compact, 24mo $65k Luxury, 36mo

Residual value is based on MSRP (how leasing companies actually set it), not the negotiated price.

Monthly Payment (with tax)
$0
Lease vs. Financing the Same Car
Lease
β€”
per month, no equity at the end
Loan (Buy)
β€”
per month, you own the car after
Key Lease Terms
Capitalized CostThe negotiated price plus any capitalized fees β€” effectively the lease's starting "loan amount."
Cap Cost ReductionYour down payment β€” reduces the amount being depreciated and financed.
Disposition FeeCharged at lease-end if you return the car instead of buying it, usually $300–$500.
Excess Mileage FeePer-mile charge (often $0.15–$0.30) for going over your annual mileage allowance.
Gap InsuranceCovers the difference if the car is totaled for less than what's still owed β€” often included in leases by default.
Money Factor ↔ APR Quick Reference
Money Factorβ‰ˆ APR
0.000421.0%
0.000832.0%
0.001253.0%
0.001674.0%
0.002085.0%
0.002506.0%

Rule of thumb: money factor Γ— 2,400 = APR. Most advisors consider 0.0015 (3.6% APR) or below a good rate as of 2026.

How This Calculator Works

Enter the vehicle's MSRP, the price you negotiated, your down payment, and the residual value and rate from your lease worksheet. This calculator runs the same math a dealer's finance system does β€” a depreciation fee based on how much value the car is expected to lose, plus a finance fee based on the money factor β€” then adds your state's sales tax to produce the payment you'd actually see on a lease contract. Switch the rate dropdown between APR and money factor depending on which one your quote uses; the comparison card below also shows what financing the same vehicle would cost instead.

The Lease Payment Formula

This is the standard formula used across the industry β€” the same one Edmunds, Kelley Blue Book, and dealer finance systems all run. With n as the lease term in months:

Residual Value  =  MSRP × Residual %
Adjusted Cap Cost  =  Negotiated Price + Fees − Down Payment − Trade-In
Depreciation Fee  =  (Adjusted Cap Cost − Residual Value) ÷ n
Finance Fee  =  (Adjusted Cap Cost + Residual Value) × Money Factor
Base Payment  =  Depreciation Fee + Finance Fee

The depreciation fee is usually the larger of the two components β€” it's simply the projected loss in value, spread evenly across the lease. The finance fee is calculated on the sum of the adjusted cap cost and the residual value (not just the cap cost alone), which accounts for the fact that you're effectively carrying the residual value's worth of "financing" for the whole term even though you never pay it down directly.

Money Factor vs. APR

A money factor is the lease industry's way of expressing an interest rate, written as a small decimal like 0.00125 instead of a percentage. Multiply it by 2,400 to get its approximate APR equivalent β€” so a 0.00125 money factor works out to about 3% APR. The reverse works too: divide an APR by 2,400 to get the money factor. Manufacturers' captive finance arms (Toyota Financial, Honda Financial, and so on) set a base "buy rate" money factor for each credit tier, and dealers can mark that up by roughly 0.0005 to 0.0015, quietly adding 1.2 to 3.6 percentage points of APR without necessarily disclosing it the way loan APRs must be disclosed β€” which is exactly why it's worth asking a dealer for the manufacturer's buy rate directly.

What Affects Your Residual Value

The residual value is the manufacturer's projection of what the car will be worth at lease-end, set as a percentage of MSRP β€” and it's calculated well before you ever negotiate a price, based on the model, trim, and historical resale data for that vehicle. Brands with strong resale reputations (Toyota, Honda, and Porsche are frequently cited examples) tend to post residuals in the 60–70% range on a 36-month lease, while less mileage-friendly or fast-depreciating models can sit closer to 45–50%. Shorter leases and lower annual mileage allowances generally produce higher residual percentages, since the car is expected to have more life left in it when it comes back β€” which is part of why a 24-month lease and a 36-month lease on the same car don't scale payments in a perfectly linear way.

Lease vs. Loan: Which Costs Less?

Month to month, leasing almost always wins on pure payment size, because a loan pays down the entire vehicle price while a lease only pays for the depreciation it's expected to experience during your term β€” see the comparison card above for the exact gap on your own numbers. But "costs less" and "is the better deal" aren't the same question: at the end of a loan, you own an asset outright and can drive it payment-free or sell it; at the end of a lease, you own nothing unless you separately buy the car for its residual value. Leasing tends to suit drivers who value predictable, lower payments and like driving a newer car every few years; buying tends to suit drivers who keep vehicles a long time and want to stop making payments eventually.

Fees to Watch For in a Lease

Beyond the payment itself, a handful of fees show up specifically in lease contracts and rarely in a standard purchase. The acquisition fee (commonly $395–$995) is charged by the leasing company for originating the contract, and is usually capitalized into the lease rather than paid upfront. The disposition fee ($300–$500 is typical) is charged only if you return the car at lease-end instead of buying it. Excess mileage charges (often $0.15–$0.30 per mile) apply if you go over your contracted annual mileage allowance, and excess wear-and-tear charges can apply at inspection for damage beyond normal use. None of these are optional extras a dealer is upselling β€” they're standard parts of how leasing companies price in the risk of the vehicle coming back in worse condition, or with more miles, than the residual value assumed.

What You Can (and Can't) Negotiate

The residual value and the manufacturer's base money factor are both set centrally and generally aren't up for negotiation at the dealership level. What is negotiable: the vehicle's selling price (just like a purchase), any dealer markup added on top of the base money factor, and the value assigned to a trade-in. A useful gut-check some advisors recommend: divide the monthly payment by the MSRP β€” a result meaningfully above roughly 1% suggests there's room to negotiate the price, the money factor markup, or both.

What This Calculator Doesn't Cover

This estimates a standard, single-payment-tier consumer lease β€” it doesn't model multiple security deposits (which can buy down the money factor on some luxury brand leases), lease-end purchase option pricing beyond the plain residual value, or state-specific tax rules for lessees in states that tax the full price upfront rather than the monthly payment (a minority of states do this, so confirm your state's method). It also doesn't include the disposition fee, excess mileage charges, or wear-and-tear charges in the monthly number, since those only apply at lease-end and vary by contract.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is a "money factor" and how does it relate to APR?

A money factor is the lease-world equivalent of an interest rate, expressed as a small decimal like 0.00125 instead of a percentage. Multiply a money factor by 2,400 to get its approximate APR β€” so 0.00125 works out to about 3% APR. This calculator lets you enter whichever one your lease worksheet or dealer quoted, and converts between them automatically.

Why is my residual value based on MSRP instead of the negotiated price?

Because that's how leasing companies actually set it. The manufacturer's captive finance arm assigns a residual percentage to a specific model and trim based on its MSRP, independent of whatever price you negotiate at the dealership β€” so a lower negotiated price doesn't change your residual value at all, it only changes the depreciation you're financing.

Can I negotiate the money factor or residual value?

The residual value is set by the manufacturer's finance arm and generally isn't negotiable. The money factor is different β€” dealers often mark up the manufacturer's base "buy rate" by 0.0005 to 0.0015 and keep the difference, so asking for the buy rate directly can meaningfully lower your payment even though dealers may claim it's fixed.

Is a large down payment a good idea on a lease?

Often not as beneficial as it looks. A down payment (capitalized cost reduction) lowers your monthly payment, but if the car is totaled or stolen early in the lease, that money is typically gone β€” insurance pays the leasing company, not you. Many advisors suggest keeping upfront cash on a lease as low as possible for this reason.

Is leasing or financing (buying) cheaper overall?

Financing almost always costs more per month, since a loan payment pays off the entire vehicle while a lease payment only covers its depreciation plus a finance charge. But financing builds equity in a car you'll own outright, while a lease payment builds no equity at all β€” so "cheaper" depends on whether you value the lower payment or the ownership you end up with.

What is due at lease signing?

Typically the first month's payment, any capitalized cost reduction (down payment), the acquisition fee if it isn't rolled into the lease, and any title, registration, or documentation fees β€” plus upfront tax in states that don't fold sales tax into the monthly payment.

This calculator provides estimates for general informational purposes only and is not financial advice. Actual lease terms, fees, residual values, and money factors vary by manufacturer, dealer, and state β€” confirm exact figures on your lease worksheet before signing.